Astoria: A Day at the River

Astoria's riverfront is always busy with ships entering or leaving the Columbia River. (photo Leslie Pugmire Hole)

Cosmopolitan travelers who haven’t yet visited Astoria might dismiss the often-mentioned comparison to San Francisco, sure that no former fur trading town in the woods could possibly measure up to the Golden City of California.

But newcomers who have visited San Francisco will be struck with the similarities: both are built on steep hillsides overlooking a bay, both are sprinkled liberally with wonderful Victorian homes, both have bustling (and derelict) waterfront areas and spectacular bridges and both suffer from frequent fog and cloud cover, as do all bay cities.

The things to see and do in Astoria could fill a book but if your schedule is more modest there are several that can be listed as Do Not Miss opportunities.

First off you should know that Astoria, the oldest city west of the Mississippi, is all about the water. Many people think of it as a coastal town but really it is a port city. Astoria is several miles inland from the Pacific, situated on a promontory and surrounded by the Columbia and Youngs rivers. Add to the mix the Lewis and Clark and Skipanon rivers and everything dumps into Astoria’s Youngs Bay like a huge aquatic melting pot.

Start your exploration at Astoria’s Riverwalk, five miles of walking trails that transverse the city’s Columbia River boundaries. The Riverwalk is as close as you can get to the river without falling in.

The path takes you past upscale hotels and boarded up warehouses, it skirts seafood processing plants (where you may be lucky enough to spot a fishing boat unload its catch and sea lions compete for the overflow) and mooring basins full of boats. It passes the esteemed Columbia River Maritime Museum, the not-so-famous but wonderful Custard King drive in and miles of decaying pilings topped by legions of seabirds posing for photographs.

No matter the season, the weather or day of the week the river is always busy. You may catch sight of ocean freighters so large they seem like floating skyscrapers, fishing boats heading out to cross the deadly Columbia River Bar, kite boarders dodging river traffic or tug boats guiding their river charges.

You can park nearly anywhere along Astoria’s northern side of town and walk to the Riverwalk but mooring basins on the east and west ends of the trail provide the most logical spots.

On the railroad tracks adjacent to the Riverwalk runs a restored antique trolley that is a perfect antidote anyone who feels daunted by the walk itself. You can ride the whole length or just sections, paying for a single ride or an all-day fare. Conductors are well versed in local lore and provide a great running commentary for your ride.

While on the Riverwalk you may wonder about the bridge that dominates the skyline. The Astoria-Megler Bridge was built in 1966 to replace a ferry that linked Oregon and Washington sections of Highway 101. It is the longest truss bridge in North America, an impressive 200 feet above the river over the ship channel on the Oregon side and traveling a remarkable four miles to Washington State (where is Megler you might ask?

Supposedly the bridge ends at Megler, Washington, but there’s nothing actually at Megler).

The toll used to pay for the bridge was removed in 1994 so there’s no excuse not to drive across the bridge, even if you just turn around again. It’s that cool.

Downtown Astoria, defined primarily by Marine, Commercial and Bond streets, is packed with shops and restaurants, having seen rejuvenation since the decades of decay surrounding the declining natural resource industry.

Also downtown is the beautiful Liberty Theater, a 1920s-era vaudeville house since restored to its former glitz and glory.

Another must-see is the Astoria Column, built in 1926 on the highest point in Astoria. Really nothing but a concrete-covered 125-foot spiral staircase topped by a viewing platform, the column is a testament to our love of spectacular views. Originally covered in friezes that highlighted local history by an Italian artisan, the column’s artistic exterior suffered in the maritime climate, rendering the images nearly indecipherable for decades.

In 1995 the column underwent a multi-million restoration that renewed its former glory and in 2007 the 164-step staircase was replaced as well.
Visiting the column is free but an adjacent gift shop has a spot for donations, no doubt highly appreciated, given the high upkeep the exposed structure needs. Don’t forget to buy a balsa-wood airplane before you walk to the top; launching flights from the viewing platform are not only allowed, but encouraged.

Allow plenty of time for the Columbia River Maritime Museum, which leaves no aspect of river or oceanic life unexplored. Kids can practice their first mate skills, watch a Coast Guard rescue or explore a retired lightship. Adults will enjoy the exhibits highlighting the wealth of shipwrecks in the area, the seafood industry boom (and bust) and the history of the Clatsop and Chinook native tribes.

If you only have a day in Astoria the attractions above are on your Must Do list; there’s plenty more if you can stick around a while.

-- story by Leslie Pugmire Hole

Must Do

Astoria Column
2199 Coxcomb Drive 503-325-2963
Open dawn to dusk

Astoria Riverfront Trolley
503-325-8790
7 days a week in summer
Fri.-Sun. winter
$1 per boarding

Columbia River Museum
1792 Marine Drive
503-325-2323
Daily 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
Adults $10, 6-16 $8

A day's meals - Astoria style

Breakfast
Pig ‘N Pancake
146 West Bond

503-325-3144

Lunch
Bowpicker Fish & Chips
Duane St & 17th St.
503-325-6975
Take-out and outdoor dining only

Dinner
Ship Inn British Pub
1 Second Street
503-325-0033